St Andrews Has a Twin? In France?

A visit to Loches, the twin town to St Andrews

Did you know that St Andrews has its very own twin town? When I was driving into St Andrews on the trusty A917, I was greeted with a large heraldic sign, reading “THE ROYAL BURGH OF ST ANDREWS. TWINNED WITH LOCHES.” I felt a little bit like a knight in shining armour, whose sole duty it was to guard this historic town from the dragon above it. The dragon of Dundee.

I got quite excited for two reasons. Firstly, I liked the idea that this beautiful coastal town in Northeast Fife shares a cultural, commercial, and international link with a tiny citadel town in the Loire Valley. Secondly, I’d just visited Loches on holiday. After a bit more reading, it turns out this St Andrews-Loches link is actually quite a big deal. So much so that a Trust was created marking the Alliance, whose correspondents arrange events between the inhabitants of the French town and us, students at a Scottish university. Its aims, according to its constitution, are to raise funds to develop “educational, cultural, and sporting links” between the two towns.

One might think that the St Andrews-Loches Alliance is a recent development, or at least something in the process of completion. And whilst the alliance started informally in 1996, it is not entirely false to say the formal alliance is relatively recent. Historically, St Andrews had remained twin-less, a stubborn soloist unwilling to accept proposals from other towns desperate to embrace its craggy cliffs. Something about the majesty of Loches, however, seduced the Community Council to say “yes, please” in 2015.

Indeed, the relationship has been thriving ever since. With visits from St Andrews’ University Orchestra, Concert Band, golfers, and primary schools, it has been a fruitful allegiance. The Alliance, which has a website, still arranges regular visits to Loches today and has recently awarded another bursary to a St Andrews student studying French. When I visited myself, the smell of fresh pastries filled the cobbled market streets, as the ninth century chateau towered over me, saying — in a heavy French accent — “Come and visit me. Joan of Arc did when she convinced a hesitant Charles VII to march to Reims for his coronation. So can you.”

I didn’t quite make it to the Donjon (yes, this is where the English word “dungeon” comes from) with its underground escape passage or the Mairie (town hall), built in the Renaissance style. However, the parts of Loches that I did visit were historical nuggets of gold hidden amongst the beautiful views of the Indre River. If you know a thing or two about medieval France, which I don’t, then I think you’d enjoy it even more. 

The similarities between Loches and St Andrews were there: it had a homely feel, a smattering of castles and cathedrals, quaint streets, and views of a river. But Loches certainly felt more untouched — it hadn’t been invaded by many chain supermarkets or seagulls — and more ancient, not just in its landscape but with its inhabitants!

Loches is also a bit more promiscuous with its alliances as, whilst it is St Andrews’ only true love, it shares links with the Russian town, Suzdal (part of the ‘Golden Ring’ of historically and architecturally important towns in Russia) and Wermelskirchen in Germany, known only for its massive Christmas tree.

So now you know! There’s another place out there a bit like our beloved university town. No seagulls, no Starbucks, and certainly no freshers. If you don’t believe me, go and see for yourself.

Illustration by Sarah Knight