100 Years of St Andrews: Through the Window of Fisher and Donaldson

To Chloe Milne, who runs Fisher and Donaldson, the team that makes up the institution is so much deeper than the coveted fudge donut. It is funny how flour, sugar, butter, and cream can be so defining to so many people. Though the famous Fisher and Donaldson fudge doughnut first hit the shelves and streets in the 1980s, Fisher and Donaldson has been around for over 100 years, watching both the ever-changing movements of the town and a century of history unfold from its bakery window.

Summer through winter, St Andrews has always invited a constant buzz of students, golfers, tourists or residents. Whether this influx spans four days, four years, or four generations, the consistency of movement is key. Amid the ins and outs and new and old faces, Fisher and Donaldson have stood the test of time.

Founded in 1919 with demobilisation money from WWI, brothers Willie Fisher and Davie Donaldson opened what would be one of the most integral storefronts in the Fifedom. Currently in its fifth generation, the bakery has been passed down through the family. Chloe runs the business today alongside her siblings Ben and Jade.

Chloes’ great-great grandfather, Alexander Milne, grew the business and passed it down to his son, who saw the opening of six new stores across Fife. “He was an entrepreneur, a businessman, and set up shop wherever he saw opportunity,” Milne explained. “My dad and uncle were able to streamline this.”

Handed down to the Milne siblings, the joy that runs through the family is reflected in the business. When I asked what the family legacy meant to Milne, her answer was simple: pride. “We run the business wanting to hand it down in a better position than we found it,” she explained. “That's what previous generations have done; it's a relationship of pride.”

“St Andrews used to have twelve bakeries. Fisher and Donalson’s USP is that we are still here,” Milne said. Celebrating its 100th anniversary in 2019, I asked about the turning points in history that F&D experienced firsthand. “We were founded after WWI, and of course, we were around for WWII,” Milne said. “There have been financial crises, but [from] what I’ve seen, even with the rising cost of living, [...] people need to treat themselves,” said Milne. “And we aren't a very expensive thing to treat ourselves with.”

When COVID hit in 2020, the national conversation quickly looked to that of the small independent business, a natural assumption that they may be at the most risk. “I don't really like to look back on it too much,” Milne reflected. “We were a small family business, so we could pivot. We are so proud that we got through it.” Milne described the almost bizarre workforce shift, with employees hot-seating on the bakery floor and hiring workers to pour flour into customer-sized bags.

COVID was not all bad. It brought a new space to St Andrews — the F&D tea room on South Street. The tea room retains the classic F&D charm, while providing a space for budding conversation, a quick treat, or a sit-in cafe experience. “Because of COVID, we could do this. When lockdown fell, we had three graduations in one year. It was filled with possibility,” Milne said.

The relationship between students and the bakery is also central to F&D’s history, Milne said. “St Andrews is such an interesting place, and our teams in St Andrews love the aspect and relationship with the students,” Milne said. “We are so reliant on the relationships with the students, whether they are looking for a little luxury or food made fresh.”

This extends to tourists, too. “People come from all over the world, it's not just St Andrews watching us, it's everyone,” Milne explained. The Royal Warrant affirmed this success in 2011. The F&D stamp is one you cannot miss when in town. “When people ask what our target demographic is, it's literally everybody. No two customers are the same,” Milne said.

Across the past century, what is undeniable to the F&D brand is its commitment to tradition. Feeling almost frozen in time, the bakeries transcend local change or trend, consistent against the risks of the ever-changing commercial sector. Its roots with locals and tourists alike show that what really matters to preserving the town gem is tradition. “A lot of our business is built on nostalgia, whether people grew up here or went to university,” Milne reflected. ”Slowly, our trends have changed, but luckily enough, our items can stay the same.”

Milne described a story of a customer buying the custard and fudge upon her aunt's request, a few days before her passing. “This silly doughnut is so important to people. It's not just cake; it's part of people's lives and celebrations. It's ridiculously special,” Milne stressed.

Tradition is also reflected in the brand's image. When Milne’s father and grandfather took over, they refreshed the brand, but as Milne pointed out, that was over 40 years ago. Despite these changes, the core of the brand remains consistent. Even walking into the shop, you are transported back 50 years. “I look at old photos and think we can just replicate them,” Milne said. “Just because things are old-fashioned, doesn't mean they can't become trendy. I feel as though we do the tradition justice.”

Despite a commitment to consistency and preserving tradition, amid the changing storefronts of the high streets, modernisation is still a question. “I have to ignore the sense of pressure. History tells us it's doing well,” Milne said.

Though the pressure is understandable given the family legacy, it is undeniable that the mark that the siblings will make. Already breaking records in 2019 and restoring the tea room in 2021, the future of F&D looms large. Since opening 70 years ago on Church Street, the bakery is expanding to create its Flagship bakery and cafe. For generations to follow, the Church Street store will now have its usual cafe front, but also a demo kitchen, a family space, a cafe and garden area, and an upstairs room for a luxurious afternoon tea experience. Opening in autumn, F&D once again managed to surf the waves of and everchanging, through its commitment to traditional charm.

“It's always so interesting to observe how integral [F&D] is to the identity of the town,” Milne said. So, if you haven't yet, you are not doing your St Andrews experience justice if you do not frequent F&D. If you stop by, it’s worth remembering that they offer more than just the fudge doughnut. “I forever tell people to give our other cakes a chance,” Milne said. “The Coffee Tower is the underdog.”

Illustration by Eleanor Vielhaber