Foraging in Fife

A few lessons learned the hard way

Foraging has gained popularity largely due to its accessibility, yet this very aspect can also be a drawback. Gathering your own food fosters a deeper sense of place and reveals the vital role wild plants play in our food system and ecological health. Recently, I’ve been watching DIRT by Huckberry, a YouTube series which showcases farming, foraging, and fermenting, highlighting communities dedicated to these practices across generations. From Hokkaido to Maine, we see a testament to this connection between the body and the good, intergenerational transmission of knowledge, as well as the roots of our dishes' names. It supersedes the traveller’s experience from walking around to informing, curating, and redefining what to forage on one’s way home for lunch or dinner. In cold climates, for example, cabbage can be conserved under the snow, which gives it a sweet taste. 

But one cannot forage what one does not understand. This brings me to the importance of land literacy. In places like Fife, while foraging may seem accessible, a lack of ecological understanding can cause harm rather than harmony with the land. I learned this firsthand while foraging for wild garlic along Lade Braes the other week. I mistook lily of the valley leaves for those I was looking for, which led to a bout of nausea. Thankfully, the doctors assured me this was a common mistake from credulous non-ruralites. Herbaceous beings are connected to our surroundings, and although we can and are meant to live off them, our consciousness of what represents a comestible plant can be foreshadowed by our naivety towards the dangers on a sunny day.

St Andrews has seen a surge in foraging activity, particularly post-Covid, as revealed when speaking to alumni. There are even entire communities of foragers that thrive. It makes sense: There’s value in knowing the history of our food. Those who personally source their ingredients strengthen the bond between land, producer, and table. We crave this connection, seeking food that transcends the instant gratification often found in supermarket offerings. The allure of the Bourdain effect resonates with many, including myself.

Interestingly, many residents of St Andrews come from urban backgrounds in cosmopolitan cities where such accessibility is less common. They appreciate the ease of foraging, although it often lacks that distinct taste of the earth that we yearn for, like a sensation that tingles on the tongue and lingers in our minds.

The East Neuk coastline, in particular, offers a bounty of seaweeds like kelp and dulse. The region of St Andrews and Fife has three distinct habitats: coast, hedgerow, and woodland. This differentiation is crucial for a land-literate forager. In Fife, you can encounter laver, sea lettuce, dulse, sea beet, and even mussels, though the latter might pose a challenge in foraging.

It’s important to note the differences in identifying plants. Lily of the valley and wild garlic thrive in damp, shaded woodland, yet they can be easily confused. The key distinguishing factor lies in the leaf base. Lily of the valley lacks the sharp pointed lobes and is significantly glossier with more veining. A simple aroma test (by crushing a leaf) serves as a primary identification method. Caution is paramount. Many believe misidentified mushrooms are the biggest threat, but giant hogweed also poses serious risks. Its sap can cause severe burns or even blindness and can be found along riverbanks and roadsides in Fife. 

Understanding the land and its offerings is crucial to responsible foraging. Let us engage with our environment thoughtfully, ensuring that we nourish both ourselves and the ecosystems we interact with. Because foraging looks for what appears edible, it is especially dangerous, and we should research the subject and forage with friends. Maybe it is my personal approach to it, but sometimes smell tests like crushing a leaf can cause confusion because we have spent so much time looking for the holy grail. So sit down and read old dusty manuals on foraging, and let your mind be clear from confusion before incorporating foraged plants in any of your dishes.

Illustration by Ramona Kirkham